PO Box 2240 Suite 729, Toluca Lake, CA 91610          Phone: 1-818-505-0022          Toll Free: 1-800-850-4949          Fax: 1-818-505-9972
  ENX Magazine     Archives     Media Kits     Editorial Calendar     ENX Mexico & Latin America     In The News     Industry Calendar     Contributing Writers     Contact Us
 britt Horvat

Xerox Phaser 4500 & 4510 style Fuser Modules
Rebuild'em to maximize yields & cut maintenance costs.
For Phaser 4500 (108R00600) & Phaser 4510 (108R00717)

The Phaser 4500 and 4510's are very popular Xerox brand monochrome dry ink printers. There have been enough questions asked about these machines that it is hard to ignore them. This month we'll look at the Fuser Modules because parts for it are now showing up in the aftermarket and they represent a good place to be profitable while serving your customers well. First we'll look at economics of the fusers and the differences between the two models… and then comes the fun part, where we open one up and see how it comes apart.

The Phaser 4500 came first. The fuser is spared by itself (604K14921 or 604K28533), or it is also included in the Maintenance Kit (108R00600) alongside the BTR (Bias Transfer Roll) and 12 feed rolls (enough to take care of 4 paper trays). Retail price on the kit is just over $300.00. The Phaser 4510 came later. For this model, the Fuser is sold alone (604K37338), or you can get the Maintenance Kit (108R00717 for the 4510 model). This one retails for $299.00.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Phaser 4500 Fuser Assembly

In either case there is plenty of room to buy a Fuser Heat Roll and a Pressure Roll, spend the time to rebuild the fuser and save your customer some good money doing it.

In spite of outward appearances, the two fuser versions are not interchangeable. The primary difference is in the fact that the heat lamps have considerably different wattage ratings.

Luckily the two come apart the same way, so if you learn one you know how to tackle the other.
The other good news is that the most important components--Fuser Heat Roll, Pressure Roll and Picker Fingers,--turn out to be the same in both versions. The same goes for the Heat Sleeves and the bearings.

Orientation

Let's get right into the disassembly procedure. To get oriented, refer to Photo #1. This way we'll be on the same page as far as what we call each end and face of the module. The end which we'll call the "right" end is the drive gear end. Then the "outer face" is the one which would be facing you if you were at the machine removing the fuser. It has the yellow label with all the lettering on it. The top and bottom are also based on how the fuser sits in the machine.

FUSER REBUILD PROCEDURE:

Caution: There are several flat-spring contacts in this fuser. Pay attention so they don't get bent out of shape… and take note of how the contacts interact with each other so you can return things to where they belong when it comes time to reassemble things.

                                                                                                                                                                                             Remove the pressure springs - Photo #’s 2 & 3

1. Access the Thermistors and the Thermostat. Turn the assembly so that it is positioned "inner face" up. Lift the left end of the Thermostat Cover up a bit and then slide the cover to the left so it will unseat and come off. Unplug the left spade-lug terminal from the thermostat. That's one of the Fuser Heat Lamp terminals and you'll want that loose later on in the procedure.

2. First you'll want to prepare to separate the two halves of the fuser. See photos #2 & 3. First remove the two Pressure Springs (use a small screwdriver or a heavy spring-hook to pop them off). Then remove the two screws from the "outer face". Also remove the long metal contact near the left end which is held on by one screw.

3. Next separate the two halves. Now… here is where you need to use your best mechanical skills. Watch those metal contacts so they don't get damaged. See photo #4:
1st Pivot the "outer" half up about an inch (the outer half houses the pressure roll).

2nd, slide it to the left in relation to the "inner" half (the heat roll half) until it comes unseated on the right end… then it can be lifted off.

4. Unseat the Heat Lamp Terminal Holders (beige plastic). For the terminal holder closer to the left end you will find 2 clips in an alcove on the "inside face". Then for the one near the right end (drive end), there is one clip accessible in an alcove, again on the "inside face". Use a tiny flat-head screwdriver to release the clips (see Photos #5 & 6). With the clips released, you can remove the terminal holders.

Photo #4: Separate the two halves

5. Phaser 4510 only: the Picker Fingers on this version are trapped close to the Heat Roll Assembly by removable plastic clips. You must remove the clips to allow the fingers to pivot far enough for the Heat Roll Assembly to be removed from its cradles.

                                                                                                                                                                           Photo #8: Raise the left end out of its cradle...

6. Next you will remove the Fuser Heat Roll Assembly (the roller with its bearings, bushings and drive gear). This can be done by lifting the left end (the non-drive end) up from its cradle until you can gently slide the roller assembly out over the heat lamps.

7. Picker fingers… WARNING… the picker fingers and their holders are extremely delicate. While this article was being written, two of the fingers broke while experimenting on the best method for removing them from

the assembly. The trick is to pivot them so that the top edge is level (see photo #9) and then "pop" them up using a small flat-head screwdriver under the center of them.

8. Next you can turn your attention to removing the Fuser Pressure Roller. You will need to first remove the metal fuser entrance guide by shifting to the left end (towards where the large metal contact clip was removed earlier). Then the Pressure Roller can lift out easily.

                                                                                                                                                                  Photo #9: Pivot the finger so that the top edge is level...

9. Install a new Fuser Heat Roller & Pressure Roller and reassemble everything. Be very careful to re-seat all metal contacts / ground clips. When reinstalling the Heat Roll Assembly, you will want to pivot all 5 Picker Fingers out of the way simultaneously. One good way to do this is by using a piece of cardstock or cardboard.

Photo #5 & 6 Removing the Lamp Terminal Holders

That should do the trick!

I hope this insight helps lots of you to rebuild these fusers… Happy Repairs everyone.

Britt works for The Parts Drop, a company whose primary business is providing parts, supplies and information for Xerox brand copiers, printers and fax machines. You can find more information, including many of Britt's past ENX articles on their website, www.partsdrop.com . If you'd like to read more about Xerox brand office equipment, there's also a complete listing of past articles under contributing writers on the ENX website (www.ENXMAG.com).

 
FREE SUBSCRIPTION TO IMAGING INDUSTRY PROFESSIONALS
FOR MORE INFORMATION EMAIL: enx@pacbell.net
 
www.enxmag.com