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Smarka! Tech Tips
*See Britt Horvat for
additional information
Tech Tips for December 2007
Subject:
XC 1045/Z800 series - Light copy one side.
Question:
I changed the T/D unit, Exposure lamp, the drum unit and
cleaned the optics. I believe you can see the light copy on
one side when I use reduction also. Copy on glass or SPF, same
thing. I am looking around for a T/S corona that I have around
here somewhere. Any other suggestions? Thanks.
Answer:
You can
completely disassemble that Trxfer unit, clean it thoroughly,
restring it, and then your problems should go away. Of course,
swapping it out would be easier, but if you can't find it,
don't waste too much time because I rarely have to replace
those units. Just clean them real good and restring. That does
sound like the root of your problems though. Good luck
Answer:
Also,
check the laser unit. I had one that was very dirty and made
everything look faded and uneven.
Answer:
I don't
think this machine has a laser unit, only mirrors and lenses.
Let me know if I am mistaken.
Answer:
No you
are right, just clean and restring the wire (T/S corona).
Question:
I took a look at the machine again. I ran and stopped the
machine and looked at a black image on the drum, but the front
side is still light.
So transfer corona is not going to help.
Answer:
Based on
your last post, I would look at the main charge wire and grid.
Also, check the optics to see if one of the mirrors is loose
or the carriage is bent; that would cause this to occur.
Answer:
Uhm...your
test is inconclusive. The HVT is powering 3 things: DV bias,
Txfer, and Primary Charge. If you have a drainage coming from
an arcing Txfer, it will affect bias and primary charge. I've
seen it too many times, and it's not that big of a step. The
worst case scenario prevents a very common issue in the near
future but still requires you to replace the toner
cartridge…Fix the Txfer first.
Answer:
I looked
back and you have already replaced the toner and drum so that
eliminates the primary (assuming you did replace it as a unit)
and the toner. Your problem is still most likely the transfer
but just as an off-the-wall what if...does your copy come out
clear if you press on the top of the machine while making your
test? Check the clamshell latches for cracks. Good luck!
Subject:
Kyocera km 4035 c3200 error
Question:
I have the above error and need to repair it. Help!
Answer:
This code
is for a blown or defective exposure lamp.
Answer:
P.S. we
have had many of these in field for a long time and never had
a exposure lamp problem, but the front door interlocks. There
are 2 of them and this can cause strange codes ... just a
thought.
Answer:
I think
this code pops up if you move the scanner out of home position
to clean the optics and then power it up without returning it
to home position. If you cycle the power a couple times, it
goes away as it was caused by an oversight...If this is the
case, you are in luck
Answer:
I had the
same problem; I replaced the ISU and the problem was gone.
Subject:
KM5050 error C6400
Question:
Can someone help us regarding our problem? The engine and
power supply have been changed, but we cannot enter to a
simulation. Whenever the button had been pressed, a beep sound
is heard. We tried opening the door while entering simulation,
and when this failed, we interchanged the AC line and neutral.
We still have not succeeded.
Answer:
Try SIM
163 to reset that code
Answer:
I had a
5035 do similar antics. It had an error code; don't remember
what. We could go into simulation, but could not do some of
them and could not go to the second level, like to test
things. Machine had a blown fuser thermofuse the day before
that. We unplugged the machine and plugged it back in, and it
worked fine, all sims worked ok. A friend who knows them told
me to replace the charge corona (which only had about 100k on
it.) I did and had no more problems. So, maybe unplug and plug
the machine, replace the charge corona, and keep your fingers
crossed.
Question:
I cannot enter simulation mode. I replaced the fuser and
transferred the power supply and engine PCB to a working
machine to check if the circuit was faulty. it was doing fine
in the working machine, no error at all. I will try corona
replacement and let you know. Thanks a lot.
Answer:
This
model has a specific way to enter the simulation mode. You
must do so after pressing the "status/job cancel" key. Could
that be the difficulty in entering simulation mode?
Question:
Yes, I've tried many combinations to enter simulation but
failed to do so. I also pressed that button followed by
10871087 but to no avail. I then tried to open and close the
door, which also failed. Kyocera also failed to give me the
right answer to this problem. Maybe some guys out there who
encountered this problem can help me. Thanks to everyone
Answer:
I know
this is a basic sounding question, but have you flashed the
firmware yet? It sounds as if you have done all the other
steps. But the new boards might have been on the shelf long
enough to have the old firmware onboard.
Question:
Yes I did, that was the first thing I did before doing
anything. Most of our problem had been solved by upgrading
firmware. But this time it doesn't work. I also checked
wire-to-wire continuity.
Answer:
After
reading all that you have done and looking at the service
manual, this is a rat’s nest of a problem. All the boards work
in a different machine. Fuser works in the other machine so
the only thing left is the wiring harness which you checked. I
only offered the firmware suggestion because it might have
been overlooked. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
Answer:
We had a
similar case. Go into the system menu then go into copy
settings. Check the preset limit number. If it is set to 1,
the keypad will not recognize any higher keys and it will give
a long beep as a warning.
Tech Tips for November 2007
Subject: Minolta DI
850
Question: I just did a
general cleaning on a DI 850, and when I was cleaning the
charge corona unit, it popped a code out of the blue. I
believe it was a c24 or 26, but I didn’t pay much attention. I
thought that if I caused it to reset, then I would be good. I
put the machine back together, reset the code, and now my
copies look like a mix between bad charge and a bad drum
blade—the copies are faint with streaks. Any ideas? Also, how
do you get to the tech mode on these? Thanks
Answer: Utility,
Details, Stop, 0, 0, Stop, 0, 1. But if it was fine before you
cleaned the charge corona, the problem is in the charge
corona. Grid backwards, wires not strung properly, etc...
Answer: I just went
through this same thing with a di-750. I went there to just
give it a general cleaning and ended up with the same symptoms
you described. The copies were not that bad before I worked on
it. All I did was slide the drum unit out and cleaned some
loose toner, etc. It was close to pm so I went back with a new
drum, starter, corona wires, and blades. I still did it after
pm, and ended up changing the whole drum housing to correct
the problem. I was lucky that a friend works for a Minolta
dealer and I was able to get that whole assy to swap out. I
still do not really know what it was but I suspect that it had
something to do with the bias or ground.
Question: Thanks. That
will get me in to see the list of codes and their counts.
Hopefully someone had reset them. And Frank, did you replace
the cl unit, drum, and dv unit with different ones other than
the ones you used for the pm, or was it just the cradle?
Answer: To get to
the service mode on these, hold the utility key until the
screen changes back to the main screen, and then enter 9271
start key. This gets you all the modes at one time, or you can
do it one at a time 25, 35 47. Hold down one set then turn
machine on in the first way I described until it is better.
Then you can go to main screen with utility and clear at the
same time
Answer: I used just
the cradle and put all the new pm items into the cradle that
my friend got from his bone yard.
Answer: Isn’t it
9272?
Question: Thanks for the
replies. Went back today and removed everything including the
cradle, gave a good cleaning on the bias and corona contacts,
and one more once-over. Bingo, everything came back, and now I
just need to replace the corona wires. There are still black
streaks the more you copy, and there was no detail soft key
after utility, but I am going to try the other suggestions. I
did order a DI 850 CD manual. I only have one in the field,
and it is temperamental and knows how to push my buttons.
Thanks again.
Answer: My typo—
9272. I’m getting old
Answer: When you
keep holding the meter / utility key down, the screen will go
back to user screen. Then look at the top left of the screen
where it says enter password. Enter 9272 and press start.
Answer: 9272 is easy
to remember if you think of a Xmas tree shape.
Subject: Pitney
Bowes dl250
Question: How do you enter
tech mode on a dl250? It’s the same as a Panasonic fpd250. I
am rebuilding a fusing unit, and I need to reset the web
counter. Thanks for any help
Answer: This is
really hard to find out because although it’s very similar to
the Panasonic Version, the Pitney Bowes requires pushing one
extra button. It’s a 3 button sequence with the Panny and then
one more on the Pitney. If one of the Panny guys can tell us
the other 3, and you get it figured out, it’s for your own
good to write it down and tape that to the back cover, or
inside the back cover, or wherever you know where to find it.
I have one that I work on, and that’s what I did
Answer: press User
Preset, multi-copy key 3 and Original size ledger/A3
simultaneously. For counters press 7 and start
Answer: Yes those 3
keys sound familiar. One of the other ones near the user
preset, ledger keys, is also needed. Hopefully you can get it
from here, let us know how it goes.
Question: Thanks, I’m
going there today. Hopefully it works out ok.
Subject: Ricoh 2027
reset
Question: I had a bad
fuser. I changed it for a good, but I am still getting the
same Error SC545. How do I reset the error code? Thanks
Answer: Go into copy
sp and clear mf device error sp 7 827
Answer: With that
model, just enter SP mode, and then turn the main power switch
off and on. You should not have to do anything else to clear
the code.
Answer: To reset “A”
level codes such as fuser codes, you must perform reset in
service mode. SP-5-810
Answer: Yes, 5-810
will reset this error, but straight from the official Ricoh
manual, level A codes can be reset by just entering the SP
modes, and powering the machine off/on. This is copied
right from manual to reset level A codes. Enter SP mode,
and then turn the main power switch off and on. Why work
harder when you can work smarter? u
Tips appearing in this
section are reprinted courtesy of Smarka! The Copier Tech’s
Info Source. Tips are randomly selected from submissions
emailed to Smarka! Smarka! and ENX Magazine make no
guarantees as to the accuracy of tips presented here. Email
your tips to Tips@smarka.com. All tips become public domain.
Tech Tips for October 2007
Subject: Sharp
2025
Question: I’m working on a
Sharp sf-2025 for a local non-profit. It has a blinking
Developer indicator, and I’m getting blank copies. Is there a
simulation mode I can use to reset it and determine if all it
needs is a developer change? I’m not getting any image on the
drum when I do a panic stop and check. I do have a service
manual to reference. Looking for some help getting to the
heart of the problem. Thanks Much!!!
Answer: The heart of
the problem is that it reached PM time, and the PM counters
were reset rather than doing the PM. It will have to have a
full PM, including Drum and DV, and the steps need to be
followed to the T from the service manual...anything else will
lead to constant troubles, causing you to look like a noob.
Good luck.
Answer: That copier
is unforgiving of shortcuts.
Answer: The reason
the developer light is blinking is because the copies are
blank—fix that problem and everything should be fine. The
developer light blinks when the drum patch sensor gets a
reading that is out of range (like when there is NO patch!)
Don’t reset the PM counters unless you do a PM– that’s a
definite on this model.
Question: New drum,
developer, charge grid and transfer wires—anything else?
Thanks for the help!
Answer: A blinking
developer lamp actually indicates an F-2 error, whereas a
steady lit lamp indicates that the developer counter reached
80K. Sometimes you can get away with fixing the blinking
condition by cleaning the drum unit, but it is most likely a
symptom of other issues related to the drum and/or developer.
It would still be most prudent to plan on replacing all of
these items as others have suggested. But for future
reference, you should know that the blinking lamp is not a
simple PM indicator.
Answer: Although new
up and lower oil rollers is a good idea, you are not doing the
non-profit a favor by fixing this. It is too old and too picky
of a machine for a guy to learn now. Find and trade in a good
used machine and donate it to them if you really have them in
your heart. If it is just another paying job, you will eat a
lot on this. It was a great machine for guys who knew it
really well when it was new, but it is not good now. LOW
VOLUME WILL NOT MAKE THIS MORE RELIABLE. As a matter of fact,
it will be less reliable if it is under 5000 per month and was
good at 10,000 plus.
Answer: Re-blinking
DV run simulation 22-15 will tell you what the problem is.
Most likely, you will then need to do 44-2 44-3 and 44-01 to
fix.
Answer: Do a
by-the-book full PM, including drum change— no short cuts.
Subject: Savin
9130 paper feed problem
Question: The paper is fed
to the registration roller which doesn’t start turning until
the paper buckles. Is there any adjustment for the timing of
the registration clutch? I am getting copies with a fold in
the paper.
Answer: That is a
classic relay clutch symptom— replace the relay clutch.
Question: The clutch has
been replaced and is new. There is a delay between when the
paper crosses the light barrier finger and the clutch
engagement. How do I adjust the delay for a jam-free
operation?
Answer: Well, you
probably need the reg clutch then, which is not quite as
common, but not unusual. To answer your question, the reg code
is 42.
Question: The registration
clutch is the one I replaced. Adjusting the registration (Sim
42) has no effect on the folding. Which one is the relay
clutch? I ran simulation 45 to “adjust the buckle” but
regardless of the setting from 0 to 15, the copies all have a
5/8” pleat 2 5/8” from the leading edge.
Answer: Is the drum
rotating?
Answer: Sounds like
the paper feed clutch or relay clutch (both in line in front
of the reg clutch) is dirty/bad and overdriving the paper,
causing the fold.
Answer: The relay
clutch is on the relay rollers, the rollers that push the
paper to the Reg rollers. It’s a smaller square shaped clutch
about 3 inches to the left of the reg clutch (looking from the
back).
Subject:
Copystar 1810
Question: Can anyone tell
me what it means when the display flashes “OF”. It will do it
in the middle of a run, pause, and then continue where it left
off after you press start. I cannot find anything in the
service or operator manuals. Thanks
Answer: Memory
overflow usually occurs when there is a print system
installed. Possible memory board problem.
Answer: I think that
the exit area is too full of paper.
Answer: Most likely,
the customer is copying from colored originals or there is a
lot of picture image, not text, on the originals and memory is
being overflowed. u
Tips appearing in this
section are reprinted courtesy of Smarka! The Copier Tech’s
Info Source. Tips are randomly selected from submissions
emailed to Smarka! Smarka! and ENX Magazine make no
guarantees as to the accuracy of tips presented here. Email
your tips to Tips@smarka.com. All tips become public domain.
Tech Tips for September 2007
Subject:
Copier lubricant
Question: I got a Minolta
EP 3000 30 copies per minute. Which is a good lubricant
for the clutch motor, and for main drive motor? And
please give me an advice for general purpose lubricants to be
used in copier.
Answer: Minolta does
not use any motors that require lubrication. Trying to lube
them will most likely cause problems. I do not know what you
mean by “clutch motor”. The electro-magnetic
clutches are not serviceable on this model and should never
have lube applied to them as they rely on friction to work.
For general bushing lubrication, I use light oil - place
bushing on thumb - fill with oil - press fore finger on top
and squeeze to force oil into pores of metal bushing.
For moving parts, I use Triflow - a Teflon based lube.
It does not attract dirt and toner like oil based does.
For spring wrap clutches I use “NFO” (Non Fluid Oil) - sold by
Ames. It seems to have about 2-3 times the life of
lithium grease and other lubes that I have tried.
Answer: I learned
the hard way that petroleum based lubricants will degrade the
strength of plastics. Now I try to use mostly silicone based
lubricants. Not sure what clutches you are referring to, but
the kind with the friction plates shouldn’t be lubed and only
cleaned with contact cleaner. If they make noise you can put a
tiny amount of grease on the shaft which might help, but if it
gets inside the clutch you’ll have loads of trouble.
Answer: I use astro
glide.
Answer: I use 10-30
oil HA HA just kidding. Replace all huds and pf roller, save
problems later.
Answer: WD40 works
beauties in fuser roller mainly, then spraying all over gets
rid of squeaks and buzzing.
Answer: When I was a
beginner at servicing copiers I once tried to eliminate the
squeaking in a BD-3110 developer unit with oil. I tend to
overdo things and this was a doosey. The oil got into the
developer and it started spitting out gooey black tar on the
copies. I had to totally tear down the developer unit and
clean everything out. Just recently another tech of ours tried
to get the squeaking out of a Minolta AF-10 doc feeder by
lubing everything with TriFlow. It weakened the plastic and it
cracked all over the place. We ended up having to replace
almost every plastic piece in it including the base frame.
Subject:
np-6230 copy quality
Question: I have a 6230
that has developed grey background on the top and bottom of
page. It looked like dirty optics, so I cleaned. Still I
have the same problem. I tried all the usual things and am not
sure if I still have some dirt on mirrors. The service
manual doesn’t cover how to correctly access all the mirrors.
The drum is new as of last April. The environment is very
dirty. I hate to just start replacing parts on this old girl
and the customer wants the copier saved if possible. Is there
any ideas out there? Thanks.
Answer: CHECK
DEV.ROLLER
Answer: You can
narrow down the possibilities by printing some
reduction/enlargements and seeing if the dark/light areas
move.
Question: Dev roller is
good. I am still leaning towards one of the hidden
mirrors. ??? Thanks
Answer: Pull out the
drum and you’ll see about a 1/2” gap above it. Wrap the
optics cloth around your spring hook and slide it up in there,
you’ll feel the angled 6th mirror. Go to the back of it
and wipe forward. Repeat a few times just to make sure,
but don’t try to use your finger even if it will fit.
Canon missed their calling in the razor blade business.
I never understood how they could get blunt edged sheet metal
to be so sharp. Wait I think that model has a slit glass
that pulls out from the front. If so, pull that out and
clean it first.
Question: I have removed
the slit glass and tried from that angle. I also tried
to access it from the top with a thin metal ruler.
Either I can’t reach it or it is something else. I can reach
the mirror directly above the drum with slit glass removed.
It’s the next one I’m not sure about. I suppose the cuts will
heal eventually. Thanks
Answer: There are only 6
mirrors there. The one directly above the drum was the
one I thought you were having trouble with. Then there are the
4th and 5th mirrors under the lens box cover. Both are
visible. I think that model also had a tool stored in
the optics cavity that made it easier to get to the 5th mirror
– an angled piece of metal with lamb-skin over the ends.
I don’t use those though because the adhesive breaks down from
ozone and age and you end up wiping black goo onto the
mirrors. What a pain to clean them off. Anyway if
optics are clean and CQ is still dark on the edges, I would
check to see when the exposure lamp was last changed.
They get dim around the ends (usually one end more than the
other) as they get some age on them. If all else fails, you
can pull the primary unit out of the drum and adjust the wire
height on the dark end away a couple turns. I would
start with one full turn clockwise and check CQ. Good
luck and e-mail me if you need more info on this box and I’ll
toss you a manual. Have a great weeken. Oops I can’t
read. Guess you’ve already got the manual. And if
both sides are dark, corona adjust want help. Check the
lamp. You may even be able to just clean it with 99.9 if
it’s such a dirty environment. Good luck
Answer: You need to
really take a close look at the developer/mag roller. These
models were notorious for having toner build up on the sleeve
and causing gray and uneven copies. You need to wipe it down
with a dry cloth to see if you can see the black build up. If
there is a build up then just scrub it with Alcohol. Good
Luck. u
Tips appearing in this
section are reprinted courtesy of Smarka! The Copier Tech’s
Info Source. Tips are randomly selected from submissions
emailed to Smarka! Smarka! and ENX Magazine make no
guarantees as to the accuracy of tips presented here. Email
your tips to Tips@smarka.com. All tips become public domain.
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