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This past summer ENX published a
pair of my articles about the Xerox Docucolor 12
copier/printer—we covered the status codes and diagnostic
procedures. These machines continue to impress just about
anyone who runs into one. Now that they are proliferating in
the aftermarket world, it’s time to have a look at how to
service and repair one part of the machine that is sometimes
overlooked by technicians—the Drum Cartridge. Okay, so perhaps you’re not the sort to recondition your own cartridges. Consider this: Nowadays, more and more parts of the machines you work on are being dubbed “cartridges” or “modules”—so, soon, when you repair a fuser module, you’ll technically be “reconditioning” the fuser module. Your other choice if you aren’t willing to recondition stuff would be to buy a new or rebuilt fuser from the OEM. If they rebuild it, they’re doing a good part of the work for you and charging you accordingly. That would make sense if you’re so busy you don’t have time to repair fusers for your customers yourself. The point is, the Drum Cartridges might as well be fuser modules or developer units or any other part of the machine. Fix them too—that’s what techs do best! The Drum Cartridges are sold under a few possible reorder numbers. First there is the 13R559 (the “metered” or FSMA version), which is reserved for machines that are originally set up for an OEM Field Service Maintenance Agreement (an agreement which includes the Drum Cartridges as part of the deal). Then there is the 13R558, which is the “sold” version of the cartridge that is offered for machines that are no longer under their care. It is likely that machines that are supposed to use the “sold” 13R558 will reject the 13R559 cartridges. Although so far I haven’t run into the “incompatible cartridge” problem, I believe it is an inevitable problem that will need solving. |
El verano pasado ENX publico un par
de mis artículos sobre Xerox Ducolor 12 copiadoras e
impresoras – cubrimos el estatus de los códigos y el procedimiento de diagnostico. Estas maquinas continúan impresionando a cualquiera que las utiliza. Ahora que están proliferando en el mundo del mercado secundario, es tiempo de echar un vistazo a la forma de servicio y reparación de una de las partes de la maquina que a veces es olvidada por los técnicos El tambor del cartucho. Ok, a lo mejor usted no es de los que re condicionan sus cartuchos. Considere esto: En estos días, mas y mas partes de estas maquinas con las que trabaja están empezando a ser doblados a “cartuchos” o “módulos”- entonces, muy pronto cuando usted repare el modulo del fusor, usted estará técnicamente “re condicionando” el modulo del fusor. Su otra opción si usted no desea re condicionar las partes, quisiera comprar una nueva o fusor reconstruido OEM. Si ellos lo reconstruyen ellos están haciendo buena parte del trabajo para usted y cobrando lo que es debido. Eso podría hacer sentido si usted esta muy ocupado y no tiene tiempo de reparar los fusores para usted o sus clientes. El punto es, el Tambor del cartucho debería de ser también modulo de fusor o unidades de desarrollo o en alguna otra parte de la maquina. Arréglelas también- es lo que los técnicos hacen mejor. El tambor del cartucho se vende sobre algunos posibles números de re orden. Primero esta el del 13 R559 (el contador o versión FSMA),la cual esta reservada para maquinas que originalmente están creadas para el acuerdo de servicio de mantenimiento OEM (este acuerdo incluye el tambor del cartucho). Siguibente esta 13R558, que es “vendido” en la versión de cartucho que es ofrecido para maquinas que no están bajo su cuidado. Es como las maquinas que se supone que utilizan el “vendido” 13R558 que rechazara el cartucho 13R559. Aunque hasta ahora no se ha encontrado ninguna incompatibilidad o problema, Yo creo que será un problema inevitable que será necesario resolver. |
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These cartridges are pretty
straightforward, really. They have a Charge Corona Assembly
that includes a charge wire and a scorotron grid. There’s also
a Precharge Corona Assembly on this cartridge. Then there’s
the drum itself—not much different in most light blue color.
There is also a cleaning blade and an auger that moves the
waste toner out of the cartridge (in this case, the waste
toner exits through a shuttered chute on the rear of the
cartridge). Finally, there’s a “Connector”—or a CRUM (Customer Replaceable Unit Monitor), as Xerox likes to call it—on the rear of the cartridge. This Connector is the piece responsible for keeping track of the drum count for the machine. I’ve been told that the Connector is not needed if you have the means to reset the drum count from the diagnostics (I believe that you‘d need the laptop, or PWS as they call it, to do this without a new Connector). The Drum Blades are spared by Xerox and the Connectors are repairable, thankfully; hopefully, some time soon, some fine drum manufacturer will make the drums available as well. One unusual thing about these cartridges that is worth mentioning is the way in which drive is provided to the drum itself. I noticed there was no external drive gear, so I had to look at it for a few minutes to figure it out. The drum drive is accomplished by a long shaft in the machine with a coupling on the end. When you slide the cartridge into the machine, the drum actually slides over this shaft until the coupling seats on the mating coupling inside the front end of the drum. This means that if you want to inspect the drum drive coupling, you have to get a good flashlight and peer through the rear hole in the drum all the way in to the inside of the front end to see how the fins on the coupling are holding up. Now to it—let’s crack one of these things open. I think you’ll like them; they’re actually quite technician-friendly. You’ll need either a 5.5mm nut driver or a #2 Phillips head screwdriver. It’d also be a good idea to have a technician’s vacuum and some good toner clean-up cloths handy. 1) Start with removing the Rear Cover (two screws—see photo #1). When you remove the cover, take notice of how the helical waste auger gear sits on its shaft (with the collar in towards the cartridge) and then take it off, as it is no longer captive and may fall off on its own—or worse, it may get sucked up by the vacuum. 2) Next, go to the front end and remove the Front Cover (three screws—see photo #2). 3) You can remove the Charge Corona Assembly easily at any time during the procedure. It is fastened by one screw from the top on the front end, and then you just lift the front end up till the rear pins clear the holes in the cartridge’s frame. The Charge Scorotron Grid comes off with the Charge Corona Assembly. Clean it up good—you can use some alcohol on a cotton swab or a corona cleaning pen, if you’ve got one to clean the corona wire itself. 4) The Right Rail assembly can come off now. It is held by two screws on the rear and two screws from the front (refer again to Photos #1 and #2). Keep in mind that once the rail assembly is off the cartridge, the drum is exposed on the bottom and becomes considerably more vulnerable. You must keep the cartridge standing up on its left side to avoid having the drum’s surface come in contact with your work surface. Britt works for The Parts Drop, Visit the Parts Drop’s website www.partsdrop.com. |
Estos cartuchos son bastante sencillos,
de verdad. Tienen ensamblador de carga de la corona que incluye un
cargador de alambre y una rejilla de fibra a prueba de descargas.
Están también pre cargados corona de ensamblado en este cartucho.
Siguiente esta el tambor por su cuenta- no muy diferente de la
mayoría en color azul claro. También existe una cuchilla de
limpieza y una barrena que remueve los residuos del tóner fuera
del cartucho (en este caso, la salida de los residuos del tóner
pasan por un canal de inclinación en la parte trasera del
cartucho). |
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